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When our experts have finished the renovation process, the second hand spin bikes can be used for almost any fitness facility. The spinning bike may be altered to suit your particular requirements at a low cost.
This can be particularly useful in gyms that have a specific colour scheme, as the used spinning bike can be painted to match your other existing products.
If you have any questions on the refurbishment process, or you would like more information regarding costs and other details please make sure you fill in our contact form.
One of our professional experts will get back to you as quickly as possible with all the information you need.
In order to keep your used exercise bikes in great working condition and to ensure that they remain safe to use it is highly recommended that you carry out regular inspections to look for any potential hazards or damages on the gym equipment.
Not only will frequent checks prevent the users from becoming hurt when using the machines, but can also help to reduce costly repairs.
If your used exercise bike does happen to become damaged, we carry out a professional repair service to return your gym equipment back to its original quality.
It is very important to check for damages early on so that minor problems do not develop into major damages, which will cost more to repair.
It is vital you purchase your used exercise bikes from a qualified and professional company in order to guarantee that the equipment is safe to use and in full working condition.
A complete renovation process is necessary to restore the original condition and qualities of the spinning bikes.
Our company provide a professional refurbishment process to upgrade a pre-owned exercise bike and make them look and perform as good as new.
Many individuals even opt to have these machines inside their own house so they can make use of it at any time they would like. Plying, or twisting multiple singles strands around each other in the opposite direction, solves that problem.
To make two-ply yarn, take two singles strands or both ends of the same strand , attach them both to your spindle, and twist them around each other in the opposite direction from how you originally spun them.
Tease out a few fibers from your top or roving so you can see how long they are. Find a comfortable chair, and sit close to the edge. Hang your spindle from a folded-over section at the very end of your fiber supply, and pinch the top of the loop firmly.
Anchor the fiber. Tease out a section of fiber half the width of your thumb and about 2 inches long from the end of your top or roving, keeping it connected to the rest of the fiber.
Fold this thinned-out section in half to make a small loop, and pinch the base of the loop with your dominant hand. The trick to drop spindling is to let the twist build up while the spindle is moving in the direction you started it, and then to catch the spindle before it reverses and undoes your work.
Use your nondominant hand to twirl the spindle by rolling the shaft quickly up or down you fingers with your thumb. Build up twist.
Give the spindle another spin, but this time, catch it just as it starts to reverse. Hold the shaft between your knees so you have both hands free.
Move your nondominant hand to pinch just below your dominant hand this will be right above the spindle hook, for now. When some twist has built up, hold the spindle with your knees and draft out a section of fiber, and then release the twist to create a new length of singles.
Let the twist out. Pinch with your dominant upper hand, and open your nondominant lower hand. Move your dominant hand closer to the spindle hook before you give it another spin.
You can wind singles in figure-eights around your fingers before winding them onto your spindle. Keep pinching the fiber with your dominant hand, and give the spindle another clockwise spin.
If you change direction, your singles will fall apart. When your singles start to kink up, or when the spindle starts to reverse, catch it and hold it with your knees again.
Your singles should be firmly twisted, but smooth. Leave the original loop of fiber anchored on the spindle hook. Pull the singles so the loop on the hook slides down to the base — not off the hook.
Then, bring the singles down below the whorl, hold them against the shaft with your thumb, and start winding them onto the shaft. Leave yourself about a foot of singles to come back up over the whorl, just to the side of the strand running from the hook down to the shaft, and wind around the hook two or three times.
Wind singles firmly onto the shaft; looseness allows knots and kinks to develop. If you need to stop, just wind all your singles on except for the shortest length that will allow you to get back to the hook, loop them around the hook a few times, and set the spindle down.
Your finished yarn will be slightly less than half the length of your singles when you ply by folding them in half, because the plying twist will consume a tiny bit of the length of the yarn.
Wind singles into a neat center-pull ball before you start plying. A pencil or marker, a very smooth dowel, or a paper-towel tube would all serve the purpose.
Take the end of your singles and lay it against the core, with about 4 inches of tail toward you. Hold it with your thumb and start wrapping the singles around the core at a slight diagonal, rotating the core in the opposite direction from your wraps.
The spinner typically keeps a bowl of water handy when spinning flax, and on these types of wheels, both hands are free since the wheel is turned with a treadle, rather than by hand , so the spinner can use one hand to draft the fibres and the other to wet them.
Modern powered spinning, originally done by water or steam power but now done by electricity , is vastly faster than hand-spinning.
The spinning jenny , a multi- spool spinning wheel invented c. At roughly the same time, Richard Arkwright and a team of craftsmen developed the spinning frame , which produced a stronger thread than the spinning jenny.
Too large to be operated by hand, a spinning frame powered by a waterwheel became the water frame. In , Samuel Crompton combined elements of the spinning jenny and water frame to create the spinning mule.
This produced a stronger thread, and was suitable for mechanisation on a grand scale. In the 20th century, new techniques including Open End spinning or rotor spinning were invented to produce yarns at rates in excess of 40 meters per second.
Yarn can be, and is, spun from a wide variety of materials, including natural fibres such as animal , plant , and mineral fibres, and synthetic fibres.
The direction in which the yarn is spun is called twist. Yarns are characterized as S-twist or Z-twist according to the direction of spinning see diagram.
Tightness of twist is measured in TPI twists per inch or turns per inch. Two or more spun yarns may be twisted together or plied to form a thicker yarn.
Generally, handspun single plies are spun with a Z-twist, and plying is done with an S-twist. It is important, however, to spin the single plies in one direction and then spin them together in the opposite direction -- in this way, the opposite-direction plying keeps the spun yarn from untwisting itself.
Yarns can be made of two, three, four, or more plies, or may be used as singles without plying. Two-ply yarn can also be plied from both ends of one long strand of singles using a centre-pull ball , where one end feeds from within a ball of yarn while the other end feeds from the outside.
The name comes from a method used by Andean spinners to manage and splice unevenly matched singles being plied from multiple spindles.
This method is often used to keep colours together on singles dyed in sequential colours. Cabled yarns are usually four-ply yarns made by plying two strands of two-ply yarn together in the direction opposite to the plying direction for the two-ply yarns.
Hand-spinning is still an important skill in many traditional societies. Hobby or small scale artisan spinners spin their own yarn to control specific yarn qualities and produce yarn that is not widely available commercially.
Sometimes these yarns are made available to non-spinners online and in local yarn stores. Handspinners also may spin for self-sufficiency, a sense of accomplishment, or a sense of connection to history and the land.
In addition, they may take up spinning for its meditative qualities. Within the recent past, many new spinners have joined into this ancient process, innovating the craft and creating new techniques.
From using new dyeing methods before spinning, to mixing in novelty elements Christmas Garland, eccentric beads, money, etc.
To make various yarns, besides adding novelty elements, spinners can vary all the same things as in a machined yarn, i. A common misconception is that yarn spun from rolags may not be as strong, but the strength of a yarn is actually based on the length of hair fibre and the degree of twist.
When working with shorter hairs, such as from llama or angora rabbit , the spinner may choose to integrate longer fibres, such as mohair, to prevent yarn breakage.
Yarns made of shorter fibres are also given more twist than yarns of longer fibres, and are generally spun with the short draw technique.
The fibre can be dyed at any time, but is often dyed before carding or after the yarn has been spun. Wool may be spun before or after washing, although excessive amounts of lanolin may make spinning difficult, especially when using a drop-spindle.
Careless washing may cause felting. When done prior to spinning, this often leads to unusable wool fibre.
In washing wool the key thing to avoid is too much agitation and fast temperature changes from hot to cold.
Generally, washing is done lock by lock in warm water with dish-soap. There are number of guilds and educational institutions which offer certificate programs in handspinning.
A tightly spun wool yarn made from fibre with a long staple length in it is called worsted. It is hand spun from combed top , and the fibres all lie in the same direction as the yarn.
A woollen yarn, in contrast, is hand spun from a rolag or other carded fibre roving, batts , where the fibres are not as strictly aligned to the yarn created.
The woollen yarn, thus, captures much more air, and makes for a softer and generally bulkier yarn. There are two main techniques to create these different yarns: short draw creates worsted yarns, and long draw creates woollen yarns.
Often a spinner will spin using a combination of both techniques and thus make a semi-worsted yarn. Short draw spinning is used to create worsted yarns.
It is spun from combed roving , sliver or wool top. The fibres are held, fanned out, in one hand, and the other hand pulls a small number from the mass.